Things to do in the Paraguayan Pantanal: access, timing and where to stay

The Paraguayan Pantanal lies in Alto Paraguay department, at the far northern end of the Chaco, and you explore it from three river towns: Carmelo Peralta, Fuerte Olimpo and Bahía Negra. To really see the wetland, aim for Bahía Negra, close to Río Negro National Park and the Los Tres Gigantes field station. You can get there by 4x4, by bus, on the weekly SETAM flight or by boat from Concepción, and in every case you should avoid the rainy season.

Where it is and which town to base yourself in

The area Paraguay's tourism secretariat (Senatur) defines as the Paraguayan Pantanal covers Río Negro National Park, the Pantanal reserve with Los Tres Gigantes station, the town of Bahía Negra and the Indigenous communities (IP Paraguay⁠⁠ (opens in a new tab)⁠).

• Carmelo Peralta: about 650 km from Asunción on the Brazilian border, where the Pantanal zone begins along the Bioceanic Route (ABC, 2022⁠⁠ (opens in a new tab)⁠). It has the most lodging and is the easiest gateway.
• Fuerte Olimpo: the departmental capital, nicknamed "the gateway to the Pantanal," with hills, a stone cathedral and the colonial Fuerte Borbón (Wikipedia⁠⁠ (opens in a new tab)⁠).
• Bahía Negra: the northernmost town, a few kilometres from the point where Paraguay, Brazil and Bolivia meet (Wikipedia⁠⁠ (opens in a new tab)⁠). It's the base for the Río Negro and Los Tres Gigantes.

How to get to the Paraguayan Pantanal

A 2025 visitor guide to Bahía Negra published by the Eco Pantanal association with WWF lists the three ways in (Eco Pantanal/WWF guide, 2025⁠⁠ (opens in a new tab)⁠). Prices are from that edition and may change.

• Driving: about 900 km from Asunción to Bahía Negra, roughly 700 of them paved. Allow about 12 hours in good conditions; a well-equipped 4x4 is recommended. From the Bioceanic Route junction it's 135 km of dirt to Fuerte Olimpo and 195 km to Bahía Negra (ABC, 2022⁠⁠ (opens in a new tab)⁠).
• Bus: the San Juan company leaves Asunción on Thursdays at 19:00 and reaches Bahía Negra around 11:00 on Friday, returning Saturday at 07:30. The fare was ₲260,000.
• Flight: SETAM, the military air service, leaves Asunción on Wednesdays at 06:00, stopping in Concepción, Vallemí and Fuerte Olimpo; about 3 hours, and the fare was ₲400,000. Request a seat at least 15 days ahead and pay at SETAM's offices. Bahía Negra's dirt airstrip closes when it rains.
• Boat: the Fátima III, a cargo and passenger vessel, leaves Concepción on Tuesdays at 11:30; the guide suggests boarding at Vallemí on Wednesdays instead. Expect about 3 days upriver to Bahía Negra. Hammocks are for hire, but bring your own food and water.

Things to do in the Paraguayan Pantanal

• Los Tres Gigantes station: Guyra Paraguay's base in its Pantanal reserve on the Río Negro, about 40 km from Bahía Negra and reachable only by boat. Expect hiking, photo safaris, birdwatching and canoeing. Visits depend on access and the reserve may close in the rainy season; book by emailing aviturismoguyrapy@gmail.com (2025 guide⁠⁠ (opens in a new tab)⁠; La Nación, 2022⁠⁠ (opens in a new tab)⁠).
• Río Negro National Park: it has no permanent ranger base, but you can explore its edges along Route 1 and the Río Negro by pickup or boat with local boatmen and drivers from Bahía Negra.
• Wildlife watching: caimans, capybaras and otters along the Paraguay River and even from the Bioceanic Route (ABC, 2022⁠⁠ (opens in a new tab)⁠).
• Sport fishing: small boats and local guides are available in Fuerte Olimpo and Bahía Negra. For a week on the river, groups of 10 to 12 charter boats with cabins and a kitchen.
• Yshir culture: five Yshir communities surround Bahía Negra, including Puerto Diana, Puerto Esperanza and Karcha Balhut (14 de Mayo). They offer karanda'y palm crafts, dances and storytelling, always arranged in advance with the current leader (La Nación, 2022⁠⁠ (opens in a new tab)⁠).
• Niokit Owush observatory: in Bahía Negra, devoted to the Yshir people's knowledge of the sky; it's the last stop on the town's self-guided walking circuit.
• Fuerte Olimpo on the way: climb the 537 steps of the hill where the Christ lookout is being built, and see the stone cathedral and Fuerte Borbón (ABC, 2022⁠⁠ (opens in a new tab)⁠).

When to go

Every source says the same thing: avoid the rainy season. Roads are raised dirt tracks that close after a few millimetres of rain, Bahía Negra's airstrip becomes unusable and Los Tres Gigantes may shut. In the dry season the river drops and leaves sandbanks where birds, caimans and capybaras gather. The climate is tropical savanna, with fierce summer heat.

What lodging and meals cost

The 2025 guide lists Bahía Negra lodgings from ₲30,000 to ₲250,000 a night depending on the room, and meals from ₲15,000 to ₲80,000 a plate (2025 guide⁠⁠ (opens in a new tab)⁠). To pick a place, look up the town's guesthouses on social media or ask at the Bahía Negra municipality on Av. J. J. Sánchez. Payment is cash or bank transfer, so carry guaraníes.

What to pack

• Strong insect repellent, a hat and sunscreen.
• Extra water and fuel: fill up in every town, distances are long.
• Shoes that can get wet and light long-sleeved clothing.
• Offline maps on your phone and a flashlight.
• Binoculars and a camera with a zoom lens.