In this guide
Mariscal Estigarribia is about 520 km from Asunción, roughly 7 hours' drive up the Transchaco (Wikivoyage (opens in a new tab)), so a same-day round trip from the capital is not realistic. The day trip works from Filadelfia, Loma Plata or Neuland, 75 to 100 km away depending on the colony: leave early, see the town, the cathedral and the Santa Teresita community, and head back before dark.
Where to start from and how long it takes
- Best base: any of the Mennonite colonies in the Central Chaco. From there it is about 100 km to Mariscal, around 1.5 hours by car (Wikivoyage (opens in a new tab)); from Filadelfia it is 75 km, or about 2 hours by bus (Wikivoyage (opens in a new tab)).
- Coming from Asunción: spend at least one night in the Central Chaco first. NASA/Golondrina and Stel buses leave Asunción at 21:00 and reach the colonies and Mariscal at dawn (Wikivoyage (opens in a new tab)).
- Finding your way: the town is a long strip along the Transchaco. West of the highway are the army base, the old church and the water tower; east are the new cathedral and most shops. The Municipalidad (town hall), roughly in the middle, is the landmark everyone uses (Wikivoyage (opens in a new tab)).
Morning: army base, old church and the samu'u avenue
Arrive before 9:00, while it is still cool enough to walk.
- Old church and Pa'i Pukú's tomb. Inside the army base, the largest in the Chaco, a red-brick church holds the tomb of Belgian priest Pedro Shaw, known as Pa'i Pukú, who worked in the Chaco for more than 30 years until he died in 1984. Show your ID or passport at the gate and say you are a tourist (Wikivoyage (opens in a new tab)).
- Samu'u avenue and the airport. An avenue of samu'u (bottle trees) leads to the Dr. Luis María Argaña airport, with a 3.8 km runway that sees almost no traffic (Wikivoyage (opens in a new tab)). Samu'u-lined streets run through the military, civilian and indigenous parts of town (SENATUR (opens in a new tab)).
Late morning: the new cathedral and its museum
Cross the highway to the east side. The cathedral was built in 2000 and has a carved wooden Virgin; next door, a small museum shows Nivaclé crafts, old household objects and Chaco War bullets (Wikivoyage (opens in a new tab)). No opening hours are published, so ask at the parish office when you arrive and come back after lunch if it is closed.
Before lunch: Santa Teresita
Santa Teresita is the Guaraní community about 3 km south on the Transchaco. It has a round church that Pope John Paul II visited in 1988, and the national indigenous high school (Wikivoyage (opens in a new tab)). This is where to buy crafts: rugs, bags and palo santo carvings (Wikivoyage (opens in a new tab)). Ask before photographing people.
For food, the town has hotel restaurants and snack bars, and the service stations on the Transchaco sell takeaway meals (Wikivoyage (opens in a new tab)). Grabbing something there lets you use the hot midday hours for the drive back.
Afternoon: drive back, with an optional stop at Fortín Toledo
Fortín Toledo was the site of a 1933 Chaco War battle. Busts of the officers who led it greet you at the entrance, and next to the site is a reserve that breeds the taguá, the Chacoan peccary (Última Hora, 2017 (opens in a new tab)).
- Access: ABC Color puts it about 15 km off the Transchaco from the Toledo junction (ABC Color, 2022 (opens in a new tab)). Última Hora describes 20 km of dirt road, 4x4 only and close to impassable after rain (Última Hora, 2017 (opens in a new tab)).
- Hours: in 2017 it opened 7:00–11:30 and 14:00–17:00 every day (Última Hora, 2017 (opens in a new tab)). Call ahead to check.
- If it has rained or you are not in a 4x4, skip it and drive straight back while it is light.
Dates that change the trip
- Areté Guasu: the Guaraní carnival runs for three days during carnival season, in late February or early March, with masks, flutes, drums and chicha. It takes place in Santa Teresita and in town (ABC Color, 2023 (opens in a new tab)). It is open and free, but ask the community leaders for permission and bring some food for the shared pot (La Nación, 2022 (opens in a new tab)).
- Transchaco Rally: Paraguay's biggest car race runs in this area (SENATUR (opens in a new tab)). In 2023, when it started on 30 June, Chaco hotels were almost fully booked (ABC Color, 2023 (opens in a new tab)). In rally week, expect busy roads and no free beds.
Before you go: heat, cash and fuel
- Heat: from November to March it can hit 45 °C (Wikivoyage (opens in a new tab)); in November 2023 Mariscal recorded an overnight low of 34 °C (Wikipedia (opens in a new tab)). Leave at sunrise and carry a hat, sunscreen and plenty of water. July and August nights get cold.
- Cash: very few places take cards and there is a single ATM, at the roundabout by the army base entrance (Wikivoyage (opens in a new tab)). Get cash at your base.
- Fuel: leave with a full tank. There are service stations on the Transchaco, but do not count on them for a detour to a fort.
- Health: the Hospital Regional de Mariscal Estigarribia is in barrio Santa María (Ministry of Health (opens in a new tab)).
FAQ
Can I visit Mariscal Estigarribia as a day trip from Asunción?
Not realistically: it is about 520 km and 7 hours' drive each way. The day trip works from Filadelfia, Loma Plata or Neuland, 75 to 100 km away.
What can I see in Mariscal Estigarribia in one day?
The old church with Pa'i Pukú's tomb inside the army base, the samu'u avenue, the new cathedral and its museum, and the Guaraní community of Santa Teresita.
Is there an ATM in Mariscal Estigarribia?
There is just one, at the roundabout by the army base entrance, and few shops take cards. Bring cash from the colonies.
When is the Areté Guasu?
It lasts three days during carnival, in late February or early March. It is open and free, but you should ask the community leaders for permission.
