In this guide
The best way to see the Paraguayan Chaco is to base yourself in Filadelfia or Loma Plata, in the Central Chaco, and spread three days across the Mennonite colony museums, the Chaco War forts and the salt lagoons for birdwatching. Filadelfia is about 470 km from Asunción on the Trans-Chaco Highway (Wikipedia (opens in a new tab)), so this is not a day trip: plan at least two nights and a car or a tour for getting around.
Getting to the Central Chaco
- By bus: Stel Turismo and NASA/Golondrina run from Asunción's bus terminal to Filadelfia, Loma Plata, Neuland and Mariscal Estigarribia; overnight buses leave at 21:00 and arrive around dawn (Wikivoyage (opens in a new tab)). Smaller northern communities may only get a few buses a week.
- By car: the Trans-Chaco runs from Asunción to the Bolivian border (Wikivoyage (opens in a new tab)). Loma Plata is 24 km off the highway (Wikivoyage (opens in a new tab)) and Filadelfia about 15 km (Wikivoyage (opens in a new tab)). Fill up with fuel and water before every long stretch.
- Once there: the forts and lagoons are tens of kilometres apart and public transport between them is minimal (Wikivoyage (opens in a new tab)). Without a car, book a tour through the tourist office or your hotel.
Day 1: Filadelfia, to understand the Chaco
- Centro de Interpretación del Gran Chaco Americano. At the entrance to Filadelfia; it covers indigenous peoples, wildlife, plants and the Chaco War (InfoNegocios (opens in a new tab)). Open Wednesday to Sunday, 9:00 to 17:00, free entry (La Nación, 2025 (opens in a new tab)). Senatur recommends it as the starting point (InfoNegocios, 2021 (opens in a new tab)).
- Fernheim Cooperative museums. The cooperative's tourist office runs the circuit (La Nación, 2025 (opens in a new tab)). The best is the Jakob Unger Museum, with mounted Chaco wildlife, fossils and pre-Columbian objects (InfoNegocios (opens in a new tab)); it is on Avenida Hindenburg and is the only one open permanently, the others are by appointment (Wikivoyage (opens in a new tab)).
- Avenida Hindenburg and Parque de las Memorias. The main street and the square with the settlers' monument, good for a sunset walk (Wikipedia (opens in a new tab)).
- Where to eat: the cooperative's Hotel Florida restaurant on Hindenburg, with a buffet and à la carte menu (InfoNegocios (opens in a new tab); Hotel Florida (opens in a new tab)).
Day 2: Loma Plata and Isla Po'i
- Museo de la Colonia Menno. On Avenida Central next to the Chortitzer Cooperative headquarters; it tells how the Mennonites came from Canada. According to Wikivoyage (opens in a new tab), it opens Monday to Friday, 7:00 to 11:30, and is free; Senatur also lists it among the colony museums (InfoNegocios, 2021 (opens in a new tab)). Go in the morning.
- Industry visits. The cooperative's tourist office on Avenida Central runs guided visits in Spanish, English and German to the dairy plant and historic sites (Wikivoyage (opens in a new tab)); each plant sets its own visiting hours (InfoNegocios, 2021 (opens in a new tab)).
- Fortín Isla Po'i. Marshal Estigarribia's former command post, restored and with a lookout (ABC Color, 2022 (opens in a new tab)). Reach it on the Bioceanic Route from the Loma Plata junction (ABC Color, 2022 (opens in a new tab)), about 25 km from town (Wikivoyage (opens in a new tab)). A good late-afternoon stop.
Day 3: forts and taguás
- Fortín Boquerón. One of the best-preserved forts, with a museum of weapons, photos and war records; guided visits are available (ABC Color, 2022 (opens in a new tab)). It has toilets and a camping area (ABC Color, Dec 2022 (opens in a new tab)).
- Fortín Toledo and the taguá. Trenches and dugout shelters still intact, about 15 km off the Trans-Chaco from the Toledo junction (ABC Color, 2022 (opens in a new tab)). The Chaco Center for Conservation and Research breeds the endangered taguá peccary here and gives talks to visitors (La Nación, 2026 (opens in a new tab)). Get in touch first to arrange a visit.
- Laguna Capitán. Salt lagoons with flamingos and coscoroba swans; Filadelfia hotels sell the excursion (InfoNegocios (opens in a new tab)). Bring binoculars, a hat and repellent.
Before heading out to the forts, check road conditions with the Filadelfia tourist office (ABC Color, Dec 2022 (opens in a new tab)).
Anything worth stopping for on the way?
Fortín Nanawa, in the Campo Aceval district 365 km from Asunción, was the scene of one of Paraguay's first major victories of the war; it is reached via the Trans-Chaco and local roads (ABC Color, 2022 (opens in a new tab)). If you are driving, it makes a good stop on the way up.
When to go and dates to know
Summer goes above 40 °C and is the rainy season (Wikipedia (opens in a new tab)); winter is easier for walking around the forts. On 35 to 40 °C days, Paraguay's Health Ministry advises being active between 6:00 and 10:00 or 18:00 and 22:00 and drinking small amounts often (La Nación, 2022 (opens in a new tab)). For the calendar:
- Expo Rodeo Trébol in Loma Plata, in mid-August (Wikivoyage (opens in a new tab); La Nación, 2025 (opens in a new tab)). Hotels fill up.
- Areté Guazú of the indigenous community in Mariscal Estigarribia, between February and March (Wikivoyage (opens in a new tab)).
In the colonies most businesses close from 12:00 to 14:00, on Saturday afternoon and on Sunday (Wikivoyage (opens in a new tab)), and few shops in Filadelfia take cards (Wikivoyage (opens in a new tab)). Carry cash and do not leave shopping for Sunday.
FAQ
What is there to do in the Paraguayan Chaco?
Visit the museums in Filadelfia and Loma Plata, see Chaco War forts such as Boquerón, Isla Po'i and Toledo, and watch flamingos at Laguna Capitán.
How do you get to the Paraguayan Chaco from Asunción?
Drive the Trans-Chaco Highway, about 470 km to Filadelfia, or take an overnight Stel Turismo or NASA/Golondrina bus from Asunción's terminal.
How many days do you need in the Chaco?
At least three: one in Filadelfia, one for Loma Plata and Isla Po'i, and one for Boquerón, Toledo and Laguna Capitán.
When is the best time to visit the Chaco?
Winter, since summer goes above 40 °C and brings rain. Whatever the season, start early and keep midday for museums.
