In this guide
The San Cosme Dunes can no longer be visited: the Yacyretá reservoir, wind and waves on the Paraná wore them away, and in July 2023 they disappeared completely under the water. San Cosme y Damián, in Itapúa, is still worth the trip: the Jesuit mission with its astronomy centre, the municipal beach and the trail at the Mbya Guaraní community of Pindó fill a whole day.
What were the dunes, and what happened?
They were a formation of river sand and quartz that, at their best, stretched about 2 km along the shore and stood 10 to 20 metres high. They began on top of a hill; when the Yacyretá dam raised the water level, they became a white-sand island in the middle of the Paraná (ABC Color, 2023 (opens in a new tab)).
- On 9 July 2023 only a wet strip of sand about 150 metres long was left, and boat trips had stopped (ABC Color, 2023 (opens in a new tab)).
- On 24 July 2023 La Nación reported they were completely under water (La Nación, 2023 (opens in a new tab)).
Will they be restored?
In 2023 the Public Works Ministry (MOPC) presented a project to bring in dredgers, pump the surrounding sand back and rebuild the dune, with protection at its base, a boarding pier and better access (La Nación, 2023 (opens in a new tab)). The dunes are protected as natural tourism heritage under Law 6961/2022, and in December 2023 the Senate's natural resources committee (Conaderna) again urged the MOPC to carry out urgent works, describing dunes "that have disappeared" (La Nación, 2023 (opens in a new tab)). Until the works are finished, there is no trip to the dunes.
What to see in San Cosme y Damián now
Jesuit mission. Founded in 1632, it moved several times before settling on its current site in 1718 (Wikipedia (opens in a new tab)). Together with the dunes, it is why UN Tourism named the town one of its "Best Tourism Villages" in 2021 (ABC Color, 2025 (opens in a new tab); La Nación, 2023 (opens in a new tab)).
Buenaventura Suárez Astronomy Centre. Inside the mission grounds: a planetarium showing the constellations as the Guaraní saw them, a gnomon, an armillary sphere, a "galactic slide", a solar telescope and two night telescopes. According to ABC Color (January 2025):
- Day visits 7:00–19:30 and night visits 19:30–21:00, every day.
- Entry: G. 40,000 for foreigners, G. 25,000 for Paraguayans, G. 12,500 for over-65s and free up to age 12; valid for 72 hours at the Trinidad and Jesús missions (ABC Color, 2025 (opens in a new tab)).
Municipal beach. Clear water, paths, benches, grills for rent, toilets and parking, with free entry (ABC Color, 2025 (opens in a new tab); Última Hora, 2020 (opens in a new tab)). It is the closest thing today to the old day of sand and river.
Pindó Mbya Guaraní community. A cultural visit with a forest trail covering natural medicine, hunting traps, seeds and wild yerba mate; there are woven and wooden crafts and tastings of traditional food (ABC Color, 2025 (opens in a new tab); Última Hora, 2020 (opens in a new tab)).
Fish-farming station. It breeds fry of native species such as boga, pacú, surubí, dorado and sábalo to restock local rivers (ABC Color, 2025 (opens in a new tab)). A good stop with children.
How to get there
San Cosme y Damián is 87 km from Encarnación and 53 km from Ayolas (ABC Color, 2025 (opens in a new tab)). From Route 1 you take a 25 km paved access road, and bus companies connect the town with Encarnación, Ciudad del Este and Asunción (Wikipedia (opens in a new tab)).
Tips for the visit
- Plan the day backwards: beach at midday, mission in the afternoon and the night telescope at 19:30 if the sky is clear.
- Heat: in summer, Paraguay's Health Ministry advises outdoor activity before 10:00 or after 17:00 (MSPBS (opens in a new tab)).
- Keep your ticket: it gets you into Trinidad and Jesús within 72 hours without paying again.
FAQ
Do the San Cosme Dunes still exist?
They cannot be seen: in July 2023 they were completely covered by the Yacyretá reservoir. The Public Works Ministry has a project to rebuild them with dredged sand.
Are there boat trips to the dunes?
No. Boat trips stopped in 2023, when only a thin strip of sand was left.
What can you do in San Cosme y Damián without the dunes?
Visit the Jesuit mission and the Buenaventura Suárez Astronomy Centre, spend the afternoon at the municipal beach and walk the trail at the Pindó Mbya Guaraní community.
How much is entry to the astronomy centre?
According to ABC Color (January 2025): G. 40,000 for foreigners, G. 25,000 for Paraguayans, G. 12,500 for over-65s and free up to age 12, valid for 72 hours at Trinidad and Jesús.
